Visiting Kyoto: temples, historic districts, and a birthday

Dernière mise à jour de cet article le 19 July 2026

We continue our journey through Japan with a visit to Kyoto, the former imperial capital. A fascinating city, Kyoto offers a subtle balance between ancient traditions, majestic temples, and serene Zen gardens. In Kyoto, you often just have to turn a corner to stumble upon a temple… and during our stay, we took the time to visit several (many!) of them.

Our stay in Kyoto, however, coincided with China’s Golden Week—a week in early October during which many Chinese tourists visit Japan. Needless to say, the crowds were particularly large during our visits. While this sometimes made exploring certain sites more challenging, the experience remains unforgettable nonetheless. Especially since Kyoto holds a very special place in my heart: this is where I celebrated my 40th birthday!

So in this article, I’ll share our favorite spots in Kyoto with you, not to mention Kiki’s take on things—she had plenty of typically Japanese surprises in store for me to make this anniversary even more memorable.

Kinkaku-ji Temple: The Golden Pavilion

To start your tour of Kyoto, I suggest you visit Kinkaku-ji Temple, also known as the Golden Pavilion. Covered in gold leaf, it is beautifully reflected in the pond that surrounds it.

This place is very touristy, but the site is still impressive. The tour is quick but definitely worth the detour.

Ryōan-ji Temple

Next, right next to Kinkaku-ji Temple, you can visit Ryōan-ji Temple. It is world-famous for its Zen rock garden, considered one of Japan’s most iconic.

 Here, everything invites silence and contemplation. You sit facing the garden, observe, and let your mind wander. 

In addition to the Zen garden, Ryōan-ji also features a landscaped garden with a pond. It’s a truly pleasant stroll.

If you have the chance, don’t miss Ryōan-ji when visiting Kyoto.

Ninnaji Temple 

Even though it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Ninnaji Temple is less crowded than other iconic sites.

Yet it offers a calm and relaxing atmosphere, especially when strolling through its spacious garden. 

You can also tour the inside of the temple.

A wonderful discovery during this visit to Kyoto—and best of all, without any tourists!

Ninenzaka Street

We’ll take a short break from our temple tour. After all, you can’t visit Kyoto without stopping by Ninenzaka Street, one of the city’s most photogenic streets. Lined with traditional wooden houses, artisan shops, and tea houses, it retains an atmosphere from another century. 

Was it pleasant with all those people around? Definitely not! My advice: go there very early in the morning, even if the stores are closed.

Kiyomizu Temple 

At the end of Ninenzaka Street stands Kiyomizu Temple, one of Kyoto’s most famous temples. Perched on a hillside, it offers a spectacular view of the city.

Its large wooden deck, built without a single nail, is particularly impressive. Especially when you see all the people on it—you really hope it doesn’t give way!

You can also take a beautiful walk to the Koyasu Pagoda. In fact, the further you go, the fewer people there are. 

In any case, the crowd there definitely ruined the visit and wore us out.

The Kōdai-ji Tenmangū Shrine

The Kōdai-ji Tenmangū Shrine is tucked away in the Higashiyama district, not far from Kiyomizu-dera or Ninenzaka Street. It’s a small, charming shrine, perfect for a peaceful break.

When you arrive, you won’t be able to miss the impressive statue dedicated to Tenjin (the deity of learning and knowledge). It symbolizes protection, wisdom, and academic success. That’s why many students come here to pray before important exams.

After visiting Kiyomizu Temple, it was really nice to find some peace and quiet at the Kōdai-ji Tenmangū Shrine.

Maruyama Park

To enjoy a little more peace and quiet and wrap up the day, we stopped at Maruyama Park, which is right next to Kōdai-ji Tenmangū. It was really lovely at sunset.

We stopped by Yasaka Shrine.

By the way, we were there for the moon-viewing festivities. But we didn’t get to see the planned activities, even though we waited over an hour for nothing!

Nijō-jō Castle

We continue our tour of Kyoto with Nijō-jō Castle, one of the city’s most iconic historic sites. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it offers a fascinating glimpse into feudal Japan and the power of the Tokugawa shoguns.

Built in 1603 for Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate, Nijō-jō was not a traditional defensive fortress, but rather an official residence intended to assert the shogun’s authority over the imperial court in Kyoto.

The centerpiece of the site is the Ninomaru Palace, famous for its “nightingale” floors. These floors emit a faint creaking sound with every step—an ingenious security system designed to detect any intrusion. Inside, the rooms are decorated with sumptuous paintings depicting tigers, pine trees, and landscapes, created by the Kanō school. They illustrate both the shogun’s power and the refined aesthetics of the Edo period.

The exterior is just as impressive. Magnificent Japanese gardens stretch out around the buildings, featuring ponds, carefully arranged rocks, and pruned pine trees. 

A must-see in Kyoto!

The Zennyo Ryūō Temple

Located right next to Nijō Castle, this small Shinto shrine is dedicated to the divine dragon, the protector of water. Unassuming and rarely visited, Zennyo Ryūō Shrine is a place steeped in spirituality. 

It’s a wonderful opportunity to discover a more hidden side of Kyoto and experience the sacred atmosphere that permeates the city. And you can even feed the fish!

Visit the Fushimi Inari-taisha Shrine in Kyoto

Is it possible to visit Kyoto without going to the famous Fushimi Inari-taisha Shrine? Definitely not!

In fact, everyone recognizes this shrine thanks to its thousands of red torii gates, which form spectacular tunnels. It is one of the most photographed sites in Kyoto.

Dedicated to Inari, the Shinto deity of rice, prosperity, and commerce, the shrine is closely associated with the kitsune, the sacred foxes, which appear in the form of statues along the trail. The tour consists of a hike up the slopes of Mount Inari. And the trail winds through the forest, dotted with small shrines, stone lanterns, and viewpoints overlooking Kyoto.

The farther you get from the main entrance, the fewer people there will be and the quieter it will be. Allow 1 hour to complete the partial loop and 2 to 3 hours for the full hike to the summit. Come early in the morning; otherwise, the crowds will quickly sap your energy.

Visit the Imperial Gardens of Kyoto

Right in the heart of Kyoto, the Kyoto Imperial Gardens (Kyōto-gyoen) form a vast green oasis that stands in stark contrast to the hustle and bustle of the city. And as we wandered along the peaceful paths of the Imperial Gardens, we stumbled upon a small Shinto shrine hidden behind a stone torii gate—almost a secret gem.

We also visited the Kan-in-no-miya Residence, one of the four princely residences of the Japanese imperial family during the Edo period.

Then we continued on to the gardens surrounding the Imperial Palace in Kyoto, the emperor’s former residence before the capital was moved to Tokyo. 

Unfortunately, we arrived too late to visit the Imperial Palace in Kyoto. The moral of the story? Check the closing times for attractions before you go, so you don’t make the trip for nothing.

Bukko-ji Temple 

Bukko-ji Temple is a peaceful Buddhist temple that was located next to our hotel. Founded in the 13th century, it belongs to the Jōdo Shinshū school (Pure Land Buddhism). The site is unassuming, without any excessive grandeur, but exudes a great sense of serenity, thanks in particular to its small garden and traditional wooden buildings.

Away from the crowds, it offers an intimate and soothing atmosphere.

When you’re in Kyoto, be sure to stop by some temples that aren’t frequented by tourists.

Heian-jingū Shrine 

Heian-jingū Shrine is located in eastern Kyoto, specifically in the Okazaki Nishitennocho neighborhood. The atmosphere there is more peaceful, far from the hustle and bustle of the more touristy areas. 

Built in 1895, the shrine is relatively new by Kyoto standards, but it impresses visitors with its vast courtyards, its buildings inspired by the former imperial capital, and, above all, its landscaped gardens, which are among the most beautiful in the city.

Heian-jingū is one of Kyoto’s most famous shrines for Shinto weddings. And we were lucky enough to be there just as a wedding was taking place. What a lovely memory! 

A rainy wedding is a happy wedding!

Visit the Arashiyama District in Kyoto 

To wrap up our visit to Kyoto, we headed west to the famous Arashiyama district.  

Arashiyama Bamboo Forest

The Arashiyama Bamboo Grove is undoubtedly the neighborhood’s most famous sight. The idea is to stroll among these massive bamboo stalks, lulled by the rustling of the wind, which creates an almost surreal sensation. In reality, though, it’s so crowded that you can’t really walk through it. In short, a huge disappointment! To fully enjoy it, try going early in the morning, before the crowds arrive.

Another symbol of Arashiyama, the Togetsukyō Bridge spans the Katsura River and offers superb views of the surrounding hills. 

We also visited Tenryū-ji Temple, one of Kyoto’s most important Zen temples and a must-see in Arashiyama.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it was founded in the 14th century and perfectly embodies the harmony between architecture, gardens, and the natural landscape. We were able to tour the interior.

Furthermore, the jewel of Tenryū-ji is its landscaped garden, the Sōgenchi. It is considered one of the oldest surviving Zen gardens in Japan. Designed to be viewed from the main pavilion, it features a central pond, carefully arranged rocks, and vegetation that changes with the seasons.

Kōgen-ji Temple 

Kōgen-ji Temple is a small, unassuming Zen temple, often overshadowed by Arashiyama’s major attractions, such as Tenryū-ji or the bamboo forest. And that is precisely what gives it its charm. Here, there are no crowds or tightly scheduled itineraries: you’ll discover a quiet, almost secluded place, perfect for contemplation.

The temple is prized for its simple, uncluttered garden, in the purest Zen tradition.

Visit the Kyoto International Manga Museum

How can you visit Kyoto without mentioning manga? You can explore the International Manga Museum, which is housed in a former elementary school. It’s a unique place where more than 300,000 manga volumes are preserved, many of which are freely available for browsing. You can sit in the courtyard or along the walls lined with books to read in peace. The museum also highlights the history of manga and its international influence through temporary exhibitions.

Is this a must-see when visiting Kyoto? I’m not sure, but then again, I’m not a big fan of manga! 

Take part in a tea ceremony in Kyoto

Taking part in a tea ceremony in Japan is a deeply cultural experience. It is much more than just a tea tasting; it is a formal ritual in which every gesture has a meaning. Through it, one learns to appreciate matcha tea, silence, aesthetics, and the present moment.

A timeless experience, in perfect harmony with the Japanese spirit. A must-do activity in Kyoto!

Where to stay in Kyoto? 

We stayed at the Kyomachiya Ryokan Sakura Urushitei hotel, and what a great choice! Right from the start, one of the staff members spoke French, which was very convenient, I must say. We also attended a sake tasting. We learned about its history and importance in Japan—and even how to read the label on a bottle! It was also here that we met some Swiss travelers and spent one of our best evenings drinking sake. 

You’re guaranteed to be in a good mood after the first drink! Will you have a headache the next morning? Not a chance!

How long to stay in Kyoto?

You should plan on spending at least 3 days visiting Kyoto. After that, it depends on what you want to see and, above all, how many temples you want to visit. However, you should definitely avoid the first week of October, when the city is overrun with Chinese tourists!

How to get around the city?

Getting around Kyoto is relatively easy, even though the city is quite spread out. Buses are the most convenient way to reach temples and tourist districts. The only downside is that you have to get off at the front of the bus, and it’s very difficult to make your way through the crowd given how packed the buses are! There’s also a subway system in Kyoto; while its coverage is more limited, it’s still an efficient way to cross the city from east to west or north to south. Otherwise, walking is often the best option. 

How to get to Kyoto?

We arrived in Kyoto by train. In fact, after visiting Tokyo, we went to Hakone to see Mount Fuji and took the Shinkansen for the first time to get to Kyoto.

In fact, the Shinkansen—often referred to as Japan’s high-speed train—is much more than just a means of transportation: it’s a true institution in Japan. Launched in 1964, it can reach speeds of up to 320 km/h and today connects the country’s major cities with impressive efficiency and punctuality. The seats are spacious, legroom is generous, and the ride is surprisingly quiet, even at high speeds.

After our visit to Kyoto, we went to Nara and set out to explore Kinosaki Onsen… It was our first time experiencing Japanese onsens. And we finished up in the incredible city of Osaka.

If you’re planning your first trip to Japan, check out my article on how to plan your first trip to Japan.

Where to eat in Kyoto?

When it comes to food, Kyoto is a destination in its own right. From small traditional restaurants to unassuming eateries and more modern spots, there’s something for every taste and budget.

Nishiki Market

Known as “Kyoto’s kitchen,” Nishiki Market is a bustling shopping street where you can discover the full richness of Japanese cuisine. With its fish stalls, tofu specialties, grilled skewers, and sweet treats, it’s a true festival of flavors. 

Try this when you’re starving! But be careful—sometimes the dishes can be too spicy… Kiki learned this the hard way! 

The Premium Wagyu Steak Restaurant Hanasato Gion

We went to the Premium Wagyu Steak Hanasato restaurant in the famous Gion district to celebrate my 40th birthday. What a wonderful experience to watch the chef cook right in front of us—and what a treat! 

We didn’t see any geisha on our way out of the restaurant, but it’s still one of my best memories of Tokyo!

Kiki’s review of his visit to Kyoto

Whenever Kiki thought of Kyoto, geishas immediately came to mind. And who hasn’t heard of Arthur Golden’s novel *Memoirs of a Geisha*? It’s a fantastic story, even if the ending was not only surprising but also disappointing. Will Kiki and Sophie be just as disappointed in Kyoto? Keep reading to find out.

Kiki and Kobe Beef

Since Sophie was celebrating an important birthday, Kiki had no doubts: today, there was no question of skimping. He wanted only the best, so he booked a table at an exclusive restaurant without hesitation. Because when you think of the perfect steak in Japan, there’s really only one answer: Kobe beef. Yes, you can certainly eat it in Kyoto. Don’t even think about the price. Several hundred francs for a steak? Are the Japanese completely crazy? No, a Kobe steak is a revelation. Once you’ve tasted it, you’ll never be able to eat a regular steak again without comparing it to this divine experience. That’s why Kiki advises: it’s better not to touch it! Or maybe you should? Will Kiki and Sophie ever forget this evening? Certainly not. Some memories are simply priceless.

Kiki’s take on the Tea Ceremony

And since we’re on the subject of birthday surprises, Kiki also booked a private tea ceremony. For Kiki, who always eats and drinks as if there were no tomorrow, this is an extreme experience. And how it’s humanly possible to remain motionless on one’s knees during a ceremony that seems to last several hours remains one of the great mysteries of Japanese culture. Tradition or not, the pragmatic solution Kiki proposed would have been simple: mix the matcha powder with water, drink it, and you’re done. Time required: 30 seconds. Oh, and there’s also a cookie to go with it. Just one. And yet, Kiki must reluctantly admit that it’s impressive to see how much devotion, calm, and attention are hidden within this seemingly simple ritual. A shared moment of silence that shows that sometimes, true pleasure lies not in speed, but in taking a break.

Geishas in Kyoto

Will you see geishas in Kyoto? Of course! There are countless places where you can transform yourself into a mysterious geisha for a few hours with a good dose of makeup and a kimono. Yes, this offer is open to men too—even if they look a little ridiculous. Are you wondering if Kiki also planned this as part of Sophie’s birthday surprises? No—there are limits! Nevertheless, the conclusion about Kyoto is clear: Kyoto gave Kiki and Sophie not only experiences, but also unforgettable moments. As well as moments of shared calm and laughter. Kyoto will remain in their hearts as a place they can always return to.

Edit by Sophie: It wasn’t Kobe beef, but Wagyu beef, and there were two cakes at the tea ceremony!