Glacier Express: Switzerland's legendary panoramic train

When you think of train travel, few evoke as much fascination and prestige as the Glacier Express. This legendary train criss-crosses Switzerland from Chur, Switzerland’s oldest city, to Zermatt, the iconic resort at the foot of the majestic Matterhorn.

In August, we were able to board the Glacier Express. However, we didn’t do the whole route. In fact, we only did the section between Chur and Zermatt, i.e. over 6 hours of the 8-hour journey.

In this article, you’ll find all our advice on how to make the most of your experience aboard the Glacier Express. And, of course, meet train enthusiast Kiki at the end of the article.

Introducing the Glacier Express

The Glacier Express was inaugurated on June 25, 1930. It originally linked Zermatt and Saint Moritz, two of Switzerland’s most famous ski resorts.

In its early years, the Glacier Express operated only in summer, due to difficult winter weather conditions and the risk of avalanches. Then, in 1982, the opening of the Furka tunnel enabled the Glacier Express to operate all year round.

The Glacier Express is also often referred to as the “world’s slowest express train”, due to its average speed of 35 km/h. The entire journey takes around 8 hours, crossing 291 bridges, 91 tunnels and several Alpine passes, including Oberalp at 2,033 meters above sea level.

The Glacier Express offers one train a day in each direction between Zermatt and St. Moritz. However, in high season, there can be up to three trains a day in each direction.

Departure from Chur and arrival in Zermatt

We’ve already made some long train journeys. The most legendary is the California Zephyr, which links Chicago to San Francisco (or Salt Lake City for us). So we were eager to repeat the experience, but this time in Switzerland and from Chur to Zermatt.

So our journey began in Chur (or “Chur” in German), a charming town with a rich historical heritage located in the eastern Swiss canton of Graubünden. In fact, Chur is Switzerland’s oldest city, with a history dating back over 13,000 years.

We arrived 2 hours before the departure of the Glacier Express. However, we didn’t want to rush around Chur, as it deserves our time. So we’ll be back!

So the end of our journey was Zermatt, a picturesque Alpine village in the canton of Valais. It’s famous for its proximity to the Matterhorn, one of the world’s most iconic mountains. It wasn’t the first time we’d been there. In fact, I wrote an article about our visit to Zermatt and the Matterhorn, which I recommend you read.

Aboard this legendary train

We were really looking forward to boarding the Glacier Express and finding our first-class seats. The train arrives on time (of course we’re in Switzerland!). We settle into our comfortable seats next to the panoramic windows.

As soon as the train leaves Chur station, the excitement of all passengers is at its peak. We’re in for a long journey!

The train passes through lush green valleys, past rivers, picturesque villages and climbs to the Oberalp Pass.

The scenery is varied and magnificent. However, the August heat is overwhelming. The sun was beating down on the panoramic windows. So if you’re worried about the heat, don’t sit on the left-hand side of the train, and definitely don’t travel in August! Think about it when you book your seats.

Unfortunately, we couldn’t get to Zermatt by train. Indeed, due to the bad weather of the last few weeks, we had to take a bus from Brig to Täsch. We then took the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn (MGBahn) shuttle train from Täsch to Zermatt. The 5 km journey takes 12 minutes. Work is due to be completed in September. So, between the heat in the train and the apprehension of a bus journey, I have to admit I didn’t enjoy this mythical train 100%.

Elegance on board the Glacier Express

We had lunch on board the Glacier Express. There’s only one dish on offer, and it’s really very good. All the while admiring the scenery as it passes by.

There’s also a bar on the train. And on the practical side, there are power sockets at every seat and the toilets are clean.

How much does the Glacier Express cost?

You must reserve a seat on the Glacier Express in addition to the price of the “normal” ticket. Reservations cost CHF 44 or 49, depending on the distance. You can book directly on the Glacier Express website 3 months before your trip. Hurry, tickets are going fast!

And unsurprisingly, the total fare is high. If you have a half-fare card, the reduction applies to the journey, but you still have to pay for the reservation.

If you’re staying in Switzerland for several days and plan to travel by train, you can opt for the Swiss travel pass. The Glacier Express journey is included, but you’ll still need to make and pay for a reservation on the official website. To give you an idea, the price of the journey between Chur and Zermatt is CHF 119 (one way and per person). This pass is therefore ideal for visiting Switzerland and taking this legendary train.

Kiki’s review of the Glacier Express

What a failure! For the second time, Kiki is unable to complete his journey on a legendary train. And this time too, it feels incomplete. After the trip on the California Zephyr, with which the actual final destination of San Francisco came to an abrupt end as early as Salt Lake City, the watchword this time was already in Brig: please get off the train!

But Kiki wouldn’t be Kiki if he didn’t want to highlight the good times of this train journey. With his heart pounding and 380 francs less in his bank account, he boarded the Glacier Express in Chur, and there was his first surprise: all around him was English speaking ! And where were the Swiss? No doubt they had all booked second-class tickets.

During the journey, interesting information was given at regular intervals and could be followed in several languages through headphones. Even if you’re too lazy to put the headphones back on every time, do it – it’s worth it.

There’s no doubt about it, it’s a picturesque ride. And you can enjoy a magnificent panorama, provided the stifling heat on the sunny side of the window doesn’t kill you slowly.

But something was missing. The snow? The famous viaducts? Perhaps, yes. Or simply the feeling of completing something completely for once? Hard to say. But one thing’s for sure: Kiki will certainly be taking the Bernina Express to St. Moritz. And maybe, just maybe, he’ll go all the way this time.