Exploring the West aboard the legendary California Zephyr

Dernière mise à jour de cet article le 22 March 2026

While I was looking for ideas for a road trip in the United States, I came across the legendary California Zephyr train, which crosses the country from east to west, from Chicago to San Francisco. The journey takes 51 hours to cover 3,924 kilometers (2,438 miles). This iconic passenger train has a rich history in the United States.  

In fact, the California Zephyr follows part of the route taken by pioneers in their search for new lands and new opportunities. It departs from Illinois and travels through magnificent landscapes, including the Rocky Mountains, the canyons of the Colorado River, and the vast plains of the Midwest.

So, after a lot of research, we’ve decided to take the California Zephyr from Chicago to San Francisco. We want to enjoy a unique experience exploring the American landscape and also travel in a different way—at a more leisurely pace—as we cross the United States.

So here’s some key information about the California Zephyr train and a recap of this incredible experience, which unfortunately turned out to be a letdown for us. Don’t forget to check out Kiki the Pioneer’s review at the end of the article. 

Introduction to the California Zephyr 

As I mentioned in the introduction, the California Zephyr is a train service operated by Amtrak that connects Chicago to San Francisco (or rather Emeryville, the station closest to San Francisco) by traveling across the United States from east to west. 

The California Zephyr travels through six U.S. states on its route from Chicago to Emeryville: 

• Illinois: The train departs from Union Station in Chicago, Illinois.
• Iowa: After leaving Illinois, the train travels through part of the state of Iowa, including the city of Burlington.
• Nebraska: The California Zephyr continues its journey through the state of Nebraska, making stops in cities such as Omaha and Lincoln.
• Colorado: The train travels through the state of Colorado, offering spectacular views of the Rocky Mountains. The main cities served in the state are Denver and Glenwood Springs.
• Utah: The California Zephyr continues westward and enters the state of Utah, passing through desert landscapes and canyons. The train stops in Salt Lake City, the capital of Utah. 
• Nevada: The train travels through a small part of the state of Nevada, passing through Reno before continuing on to California.
• California: The California Zephyr finally reaches its terminus in Emeryville, California, which is located just east of San Francisco. 

These states offer a remarkable variety of landscapes, including majestic mountains, lush plains, winding rivers, and desert vistas.

The History of the California Zephir 

In the 19th century, pioneers, settlers, and gold prospectors traveled westward across the country by stagecoach, ox-drawn wagon, and newly built railroads.

The California Zephyr was inaugurated on March 19, 1949, and thus continues this tradition of exploration and westward travel.

Our experience aboard the California Zephyr can be divided into three distinct parts: 

• Chicago – Denver 
• Denver – Salt Lake City 
• Salt Lake City – San Francisco 

From Chicago to Denver: a magical journey 

After spending two days in Chicago, it’s time to head to Union Station to board the legendary California Zephyr.

Boarding the California Zephyr

At Chicago’s Union Station, we’re eagerly waiting for the platform announcement for our train. We’re very disappointed because the station has been closed off for an event. As a result, we can’t tour it as we had planned.

Just 15 minutes before the train’s departure, a crowd starts rushing. Like sheep, we follow all these people without really knowing where they’re going. Luckily, we spot a screen where our train’s platform number is finally displayed. We’re in the right line and will board second-to-last in car 1, which is actually the last car of the train. We’re happy because we have a great view from the back of the train. 

Another pleasant surprise is the space between the seats! You can even recline the seats almost all the way back. We were so stressed about spending the night on a train, but now we feel completely reassured! Even though it’s not a bed, we should be able to sleep just fine. Plus, there are no seats facing backward. Finally, there are outlets to charge our phones. You don’t really get that kind of comfort on trains in France. We’re thrilled and excited to start this long journey.   

Goodbye, Chicago! Here we go—an 18-hour drive ahead of us!

The panoramic car 

We walk over to the observation car. I’m pleasantly surprised because, contrary to what I expected, passengers get on and off the observation car without leaving their belongings behind to reserve seats (this won’t be the case on the second trip). It’s just a shame that the windows are so dirty. 

The first two hours fly by as the Iowa landscape rolls past, shifting with the light. It’s nothing but plains, dotted with farms and a few houses. The scenery is wild and breathtaking.

In fact, we crossed a bridge over the Mississippi River and then drove along the riverbank. We were completely captivated—it’s not every day you get the chance to drive over the Mississippi. After a few hours on the road, we were completely won over by this incredible experience.

We also watch the sunset.

Dining on board the California Zephyr

We were so absorbed by the scenery that we missed the call to reserve a table at the restaurant for dinner. However, we were able to buy a hamburger and a hot dog at the bar. It’s definitely not the best food, but it’ll do. Be sure to bring something to eat on the train!

A Night on the Train 

Before spending our first night on a train, we were worried about the noise. We were quickly put at ease, though, because it’s very quiet. The lights go out, and the passengers fall asleep one by one. 

We were really lucky because the night went well. It certainly wasn’t the best night of our trip—it’s hard to find a comfortable sleeping position on reclining seats—but we managed to get a few hours of sleep. The problem with this train, and in the U.S. in general, is the air conditioning. It was really cold on the train, especially at night.

We gained an hour overnight. Daybreak is slowly approaching. We’re already in Colorado. We crossed Nebraska during the night. The passengers are slowly waking up and heading to the observation car to watch the sunrise. 

Stops to stretch your legs

The train stops at two stations where you can get off to stretch your legs. It’s great to get off the train, walk around, and get back on. You won’t be able to wander far, but you’ll have time to get some fresh air. When getting back on the train, listen for the conductors’ announcements. 

Arrival in Denver

Before you know it, time just flies by thanks to the stunning scenery along the entire route. In fact, this first leg of the journey takes 18 hours! In France, taking the train is complicated and stressful, but here, not at all. And it’s not boring at all, which is pretty incredible for a trip that long. 

Many passengers will be getting off in Denver, just like us. It’s 7:10 a.m. We’re arriving on time, which is rare enough to be worth mentioning. So we’re spending a day in Denver. I really fell in love with this city, which is why I decided to come back during another trip to the U.S. You can check my article what do to in Denver and surrounding.

From Denver to Salt Lake City: breathtaking views  

After a good night’s sleep at the hotel in Denver, we get ready to catch our train, which was scheduled to arrive at 7:10 a.m. and depart at 8:05 a.m. Unfortunately, this time it will be an hour late. That’s okay, though, because the Denver train station is really very pleasant.

Just like in Chicago, we board the train after receiving our ticket with our seat number.

The observation car on the California Zephyr

Once on the train, we head straight to the observation car to enjoy what promises to be a spectacular view. It’s hard to find a seat, especially since some people put their belongings next to them so no one will sit there. By the way, here’s a little riddle for you: 5 seats occupied but only 3 people present. Guess their nationality? French, of course…and then we wonder why the French have a bad reputation. Thankfully, the Amtrak staff enforces the rules. If someone leaves belongings on a seat, they’re removed immediately. 

As for the passengers, it varies from train to train. Our first train had a really great atmosphere; the people were friendly and pleasant. On the second train, the passengers were less pleasant. Aside from the French passengers who cling to their seats no matter what, one man was coughing without a care, and another arrived reeking of a smell that would make even the most resilient person want to vomit. Every trip is different.

The trip from Denver to Salt Lake City 

We pass through tunnels. The conductor even provides humorous commentary on the scenery. It’s very enjoyable, especially as breathtaking views roll by, particularly in the Rockies and the canyons. 

We’re also really excited to see the Colorado River. To be honest, the lighting isn’t always ideal, but we’re enjoying it anyway. As we ride along the Colorado River, we watch the adventurers rafting and kayaking. We even had a good laugh in the train car when a kayaker flashed us his butt. 

However, this time the journey is a little longer than the last one. The scenery rolls by: snow-capped mountains, canyons, plains, and villages lost in the middle of nowhere. But sometimes it feels long—very long. The train moves slowly. You even start to wonder if it’s going to stop.

Fortunately, you can get off the train several times to stretch your legs. Even if it’s just for a few minutes, it’s really nice. There’s even a stop at a station with a store that’s open just for our train. 

We have lunch and dinner on the train. However, this time, we had planned our meal in advance.

To cap off this train ride, we were treated to a magnificent rainbow.

Arrival in Salt Lake City

Arriving in Salt Lake City was a bit of a challenge because we landed at 11:30 p.m. (instead of 11:05 p.m.). The delay wasn’t that long, but at that hour, it really made a difference. In any case, it gave us a different kind of travel experience in the United States, and we loved it!

We’ll head straight to the hotel, and then we’ll spend five days in Utah exploring the iconic national parks of the American West.

From Salt Lake City to San Francisco: The Drama 

Our train was scheduled to arrive in Salt Lake City at 11:30 p.m. We had spent the morning in Capitol Reef National Park and then the afternoon driving back to Salt Lake City. 

The announcement of the California Zephyr’s delay

Early in the morning, we started receiving the first messages from Amtrak telling us that our train would be delayed. Three hours late? Okay, it’ll probably be able to make up the time. We’d arrive later in Salt Lake City. We didn’t have a connection in the park, so there was no way to know where our train was.

When we left the park, I received messages from Amtrak telling me there was a 5-hour delay. It was a real letdown. As we got closer to Salt Lake City, the delay grew to 7 hours and 45 minutes. Our train was therefore scheduled to arrive in Salt Lake City at 6 a.m. and get us to San Francisco around 11 p.m. instead of 4 p.m. Since our flight was the next day, we didn’t have much leeway left. 

The train cancellation

As planned, we returned our rental car at Salt Lake City Airport, but we were completely lost. There was no way we were going to wait at a train station until 6 a.m. for a train that might never arrive, especially since service had been suspended indefinitely. So we had to make a decision, because Amtrak was offering to cancel our ticket and give us a full refund. 

So we book a hotel near the airport and check flight schedules to San Francisco. Our adventure on the California Zephyr comes to an end. What a frustration and what a disappointment. We won’t be making it to California by train.

Even today, I’m still incredibly disappointed. I wonder how it’s possible that our train was so late. Amtrak attributed the delay to difficult weather conditions and debris on the tracks. While delays are common in the United States, I didn’t expect to have to cancel and fly to San Francisco instead.

Online Train Tracking

It’s worth noting that we regularly received updates about our train’s delay. You can also track your train on the Amtrak website.

In addition, once the delay reached five hours, we were able to cancel and receive a full refund. 

Practical information about the California Zephyr

The comfort of the California Zephyr

You can choose the level of comfort you prefer for your trip. You can book a Coach (reclining seats), a Roomette (compact cabins for one or two people with bunk beds), or a Bedroom (more spacious cabins with a private bathroom). 

The train also features a dining car, a lounge car, and a panoramic car. For your convenience, there are three restrooms per car, which are cleaned regularly. 

Prices and schedules

Schedules and travel times (in theory):

• Chicago–Denver: 2:00 p.m.–7:20 a.m. (an 18-hour trip)
• Denver–Salt Lake City: 8:05 a.m.–11:05 p.m. (a 15-hour trip)
• Salt Lake City–San Francisco: 11:30 p.m.–4:10 p.m. (a 17-hour, 40-minute trip)

We recommend booking your tickets for the California Zephyr in advance, especially if you plan to travel during peak periods. You can book your tickets directly on the Amtrak website.

We’ve also received prompts to upgrade our trip, but it never worked for us. Whenever we tried to pay, we always got error messages. It’s frustrating.

To give you an idea of what we paid:

• Chicago–Denver: $125 per person
• Denver–Salt Lake City: $86 per person
• Salt Lake City–San Francisco: $105 per person

If you book a one-way ticket from Chicago to San Francisco, you’ll pay less than if you get off in Denver or Salt Lake City, as we did.

How can you find out your seat numbers? 

When you buy your tickets, you won’t know your seat assignments. In Chicago, you’ll need to go to the California Zephyr check-in counter. You’ll receive a piece of cardboard with your seat numbers, and you’ll need to remember the number of our car. Then, when boarding, don’t be surprised if your seats are changed and you’re given another card to place above your seats. 

In Denver, we didn’t have to go to a ticket counter. We waited on the platform, and before boarding, an agent handed us our seat numbers (still on a piece of cardboard).

What should I do with my suitcases?

At Chicago Union Station, we first checked our luggage, just like at the airport. Goodbye, suitcases! We hope to see you again when we arrive! Just a heads-up: you need to check your luggage no later than 45 minutes before the train departs. 

And in Denver, we went to the baggage claim area to pick up our luggage. After waiting for what seemed like forever, we finally got our bags.

However, in Denver, we decided to keep them with us and store them in the luggage racks at the entrance to the train cars to save time, especially upon arrival. It’s up to you.

Is there cell service along the California Zephyr route?

A crucial question for phone addicts! Seriously though, this train trip is a great way to unplug. However, we were surprised to find that from Chicago to Denver, we had a signal almost the entire way. From Denver to Salt Lake City, there were a few moments without service, but that happens relatively rarely.

Should you stop in Salt Lake City or Green River on the way to Moab? 

We had planned to spend four days in the Moab area visiting the U.S. national parks.

On the trip from Denver to Salt Lake City, the train stopped in Green River, the town closest to Moab (a 53-minute drive). When planning this trip, I hadn’t noticed this stop. It would have been much more convenient than Salt Lake City. That way, we could have easily saved five hours of travel time. In fact, the train arrives in Green River around 4 p.m. That would have spared us a short night’s sleep, unlike when we arrived in Salt Lake City at 11:30 p.m. Furthermore, given our train’s delay, we could have caught it at 1 a.m. instead of 4 p.m.

So, if you’re planning to visit the parks around Moab, Green River is a perfect stop… provided the train runs on schedule. 

As I write this, I still feel frustrated. Would we have come out ahead if we’d gone to Green River? I don’t know—stopping in Salt Lake City gave us a chance to explore the city, but it also allowed us to fly to San Francisco and spend more time there.

If you want to know more about our travels, discover our best road trips in USA.

Kiki the pioneer’s review 

A train trip across America was right up Kiki’s alley! In fact, Kiki loves taking the train (as long as it’s not in France). Experiencing the era when the first settlers set out for the West with horses and wagons was truly impressive and left Kiki in awe and humbled. Even in a comfortable train, the journey is incredibly long. But the fact that two hundred years ago, people undertook this difficult journey in search of a better life or because they were politically persecuted is simply incredible. They were true adventurers!

By the way, Kiki knows all the U.S. states—at least by name. He was finally able to check off more states from his list that he’s actually visited: Illinois, Iowa, Nebraska (unfortunately only at night, so he didn’t see much), Colorado, and Utah! Which of these states did he like best? The endless expanses of Iowa really impressed him, while the Rocky Mountains in Colorado were rather disappointing. After all, Kiki is a mountain monkey, and he knows many beautiful mountains in Europe that are more impressive.