Visiting the Appenzell region: my 12 must-sees
Over the past few years, I’ve had the opportunity to visit the German-speaking part of Switzerland, particularly the magnificent Appenzell region. I love discovering new places or just returning to places I find incredible.
So in this article, I bring you 12 must-see places in the Appenzell region.
And, of course, find out what Kiki, the local boy, has to say at the end of the article.
Introduction to the Appenzell region
The canton of Appenzell was once divided into rhodes. Then, in 1597, the rhodes split to form two half-cantons: Appenzell Ausserrhoden and Appenzell Innerrhoden.
The canton of Appenzell Ausserrhoden has a population of around
54,000 inhabitants. It has no official capital, but the town of Herisau is generally designated as such.
Appenzell Innerrhoden is Switzerland’s smallest canton in terms of population (16,100). Its capital is the town of Appenzell.
It lies in the heart of the Alpstein massif, with its rolling, green landscape. This makes the region a real paradise for hikers. In winter, there are almost 200 km of cross-country ski trails in the Appenzell region.
There are also many rural traditions, such as the descent from the mountain pastures. But also cultural particularities such as folk dances.
Finally, every year on the last Sunday in April, around 3,000 eligible voters gather at the Landsgemeindeplatz in Appenzell to take part in the Landsgemeinde, the citizens’ assembly. This ancient democratic institution survives only in the cantons of Appenzell Innerrhoden and Glarus. Citizens organize ballots and take decisions on all matters of the year at cantonal level.
After this introduction, here are 12 ideas for places to discover in Appenzell.
1 Visiting Appenzell
We start with the town ofAppenzell. With its 7,000 inhabitants, it’s a must-see when visiting Appenzell. Stroll through the charming alleys and boutiques of the pedestrianized center. Take time to admire the magnificent painted facades of the buildings.
I also recommend a visit to the Appenzell Museum, located next to the town hall in the tourist office. Here you can discover the region’s history and culture, including Appenzell embroidery, folklore, customs and traditions.
If you don’t speak German, ask at reception for a booklet in French to help you explore the museum.
2 Visit Heiden
Heiden is a small town in the canton of Appenzell Ausserrhoden. It sits on a hill overlooking Lake Constance, with panoramic views of the surrounding mountains.
Its small town center is also very pleasant and famous for the classical architecture of its Biedermeier-era houses.
The town is also home to the Henry Dunant Museum, the founder of the Red Cross who died in Heiden. By the way, wasn’t Kiki born in Heiden?
3 Stopping off at Schwellbrunn
With its 1,460 inhabitants, Schwellbrunn is a beautiful village typical of the Appenzell region. In 2017, it was voted the most beautiful village in Switzerland!
It’s a quick visit, but so pleasant and so typical of Appenzell.
4 Climb to the top of the Kronberg
We take a step up to the Kronberg, 1663 meters above sea level. It’s a mountain in the Appenzell Pre-Alps, to the west of Appenzell. It can be reached by cable car. It’s a long way up, but the view is magnificent.
Once you’ve reached the top, the panorama is just incredible, with that magical feeling of being above the clouds.
You can admire the Säntis, the Hoher Kasten, the Appenzell region and Lake Constance. You can also enjoy a wide range of hiking trails.
What’s more, you can take a siesta while admiring the view of the mountains.
And in winter, when there’s snow, you can take to the longest toboggan run in eastern Switzerland, with 7 kilometers between the Kronberg summit and the valley. There’s also a tree climbing course and a large playground.
In fact, I’ve written an article about the Kronberg, my favorite place in Switzerland, with tips and ideas for things to do in this magical place.
Restaurant Berggasthaus Kronberg
At the summit, you can dine in the Berggasthaus Kronberg restaurant. Here, you can enjoy a coffee or a plate of charcuterie and Swiss cheeses (Mostbröckli, Buureschöblig, bacon, Pantli) or Appenzeller Siedwurst (Appenzeller boiled sausage) with cheese pasta and applesauce. All with an incredible view.
Practical information
- Price: 38 Swiss francs round trip.
- Cable car address: Kronberg AG 9108 Jakobsbad.
- Webcam for real-time weather information.
- More information on the Swiss Tourist Board website.
I fell in love with the Kronberg the first time I went there. Since then, I’ve been back several times. The Kronberg has become my favorite place in the Appenzell region. I really love going there to enjoy the majestic views and soothing calm.
5 Discover the Säntis
Säntis is a peak in the Swiss Alps. At 2,502 meters, it is the highest peak in the Alpstein massif, located between the cantons of Appenzell Ausserrhoden, Appenzell Innerrhoden and St. Gallen. It is made of limestone.
You have to take a cable car to the Schwägalp pass to reach the summit. The ascent is quite rapid. Once you’ve reached the summit of Säntis, there’s only one word that comes to mind: “wahoo”. Indeed, the panorama is just incredible.
It’s also possible to see six countries: Switzerland, Germany, Liechtenstein, Austria, Italy and even France! A real picture-postcard landscape with snow-capped mountains.
The weather station
Meteorologists built a weather station on the Säntis summit as early as 1882. Finally, there’s a restaurant on the summit where you can enjoy the view while dining on Swiss specialities.
Practical information
- Cable car fare: 54 Swiss francs round trip or 38 Swiss francs one way (or one way back).
- Address: Talstation Schwebebahn, 9107 Schwägalp.
6 Reaching the summit of Hoher Kasten
The Hoher Kasten is a mountain in the Appenzell Alps at an altitude of
1,794 m above sea level.
Once at the summit, you can see the whole of the Alpstein, the Säntis, the canton of Appenzell Innerrhoden, the Rhine valley and Lake Constance. You can see four countries: Germany, Austria, Liechtenstein and, of course, Switzerland.
There’s plenty of opportunity for hiking. In fact, you can take the cable car up and walk back down (1h35 to Brülisau). And to complete the descent, you can even rent a scooter.
Practical information:
- Price: 46 Swiss francs each way
- Address: Hundwil
For something a little out of the ordinary, you can enjoy breakfast in the restaurant at the top of Hoher Kasten. The restaurant rotates, which means you’ll have a 360-degree view during your meal. It takes about an hour to complete the tour.
7 Climb to the top of Ebenalp
Ebenalp (1,640 m) is a peak in the Appenzell Alps. It can be reached by cable car.
Along the way, you can admire the prehistoric Wildkirchli cave, inhabited 40,000 years ago, and a chapel.
You can also stop off at the Aescher restaurant, set in the heart of the rocks and serving dishes based on Appenzell cheese.
A must-see if you’re visiting the Appenzell region!
Practical information
- Price: 34 Swiss francs each way
- Address: Wasserauen
8 Take a hike to see the Seealpsee
From Wasserauen, you can hike to the Seealpsee lake. This lake is part of the Alpstein mountain range in the canton of Appenzell Innerrhoden. It lies at an altitude of 1,143 meters and covers an area of 13.6 hectares.
To be honest, I don’t have the best memories of this hike, which isn’t all that easy. Bring good shoes. Fortunately, seeing the magnificent Seealpsee lake was a great reward. And of course, there’s a restaurant at the end!
9 Barefoot walk from Jakobsbad to Gontenbad
Why not go barefoot? That’s what I recommend you do between Jakobsbad and Gontenbad. You’ll cross meadows and streams, stony paths and asphalt roads.
Along the way, there’s even the Toobeschopf Museum, where you can take a step back in time. Outside, you can dip your arms in a fountain and try out Dr. Kneipp’s method.
You’ll end up in the mud, but don’t worry, you can wash your feet without any problem. It’s all taken care of, and it’s good for your health!
I loved the concept! I really recommend it.
10 Visit the Appenzeller Schaukäserei (cheese dairy)
Switzerland is famous for its cheeses such as Gruyère and Emmental, but also for Appenzeller. Located in Stein, the Appenzeller Schaukäserei is a demonstration cheese dairy where you can see how Appenzeller cheese is made.
This cheese has been handmade for 700 years according to an ancient tradition. In fact, according to the ancestral recipe, Appenzeller cheese can only be made in the cantons of Appenzell Innerrhoden, Appenzell Outerrhoden and parts of the cantons of St. Gallen and Thurgau.Appenzeller is renowned for its flavor, which is the result of patient brushing for at least three months with a mountain herb-based brine called “Sulz”, the recipe for which is still secretly guarded today.
Here, you can watch the cheese being made and admire the 12,500 wheels of cheese stored in a cheese cellar. The ultimate reward is to taste every type of Appenzeller, from the mildest to the most full-bodied.
You can even put together your own blend of herbs (thyme, lemon balm…), which is great fun to do. You can even take the bag home with you.
As a little anecdote, as soon as I arrive in Switzerland, I buy a piece of Appenzeller, one of my favorite cheeses!
11 Fondue in Appenzell
When you’re in Switzerland, how can you resist a good fondue? And when you’re in a typically Swiss restaurant, it’s bound to be good!
Restaurant address: Sonder, 249, 9063 Stein
12Visit St. Gallen (near Appenzell)
Located 20 minutes from Appenzell, I really recommend a visit to St. Gallen in the canton of St. Gallen. You can visit its beautiful town center and magnificent abbey.
To find out more, read my article on the visit to St. Gallen.
Travel tips for Appenzell
To conclude this article, here’s a good idea if you’re coming to Switzerland. Given the high prices, there’s a discount card called the Swiss pass. This card entitles you to half-price travel for one year on trains, buses, boats and streetcars throughout Switzerland. It also entitles holders to discounts of up to 50% on cable cars and other activities.
The Swiss pass costs 185 Swiss francs the first time (then 165 Swiss francs on renewal). If you come to Switzerland often and use Swiss transport, this card is a real bargain… It pays for itself quickly, given the prices in Switzerland.
The opinion of Kiki, child of the Appenzell region
It’s certainly not escaped your notice that Kiki loves Switzerland above all else. And the Appenzell region is particularly close to his heart. And no, it’s not just because of what is probably the best cheese in Switzerland!
Unfortunately, Kiki has become a bit lazy of late. All that good food from all over the world must have been too much, so he can’t go hiking in the Alpstein any more. He runs out of breath far too quickly.
Fortunately, many of Appenzell’s peaks can be reached by cable car. The view of the Säntis, where you can even see six countries (although he doesn’t really believe you can see France), is undoubtedly unique! One thing’s for sure: Kiki will be returning to Appenzell many times.
Other destinations in German-speaking Switzerland
If you’re in Appenzell, here are a few ideas you might like to discover during your stay in Switzerland:
